Knitting Technology
- 1st Edition - January 1, 1983
- Latest edition
- Author: David J. Spencer
- Language: English
- Paperback ISBN:9 7 8 - 0 - 0 8 - 0 2 4 7 6 3 - 2
- eBook ISBN:9 7 8 - 1 - 4 8 3 1 - 8 2 2 3 - 0
Knitting Technology details the fundamental principles of knitting. The title tackles the topics that are relevant to the application of knitting technology in education, industry,… Read more
Knitting Technology details the fundamental principles of knitting. The title tackles the topics that are relevant to the application of knitting technology in education, industry, or commerce. The coverage of the text includes flat, circular, full fashioned, hosiery, Raschel, tricot, and crochet production. The selection also discusses the historical development of the types of machines and their actions and mechanisms, as well as the construction, properties, and end uses of the products they manufacture. The book will be of great use to anyone involved in weft and warp knitting.
Chapter 1 An Introduction to Textile Technology
1.1 Evolution of Textiles
1.2 Textile Fabrics
1.3 Textile Yarns and Fibers
1.4 Yarn Count Numbering Systems
1.5 Conversion Formulae
Chapter 2 The Evolution of Knitting Technology
2.1 The Spread of Knowledge of Hand Pin Knitting
2.2 Principles of Hand Knitting Using Two Pins
2.3 Invention of the Stocking Frame
2.4 The Bearded Needle
2.5 Principles of Frame Knitting
2.6 Evolution of Other Weft Knitting Machines
2.7 Development of Warp Knitting
Chapter 3 General Terms and Principles of Knitting Technology
3.1 Machine Knitting
3.2 Knitted Loop Structure
3.3 A Course
3.4 A Wale
3.5 Stitch Density
3.6 Technically Upright
3.7 Design Appearance Requirements
3.8 The Knitting Machine
3.9 The Needle
3.10 Fabric Draw-off
3.11 The Front of Rectilinear Needle Bar Machines
3.12 Basic Knitting Action of a Needle
3.13 The Bearded Needle
3.14 Main Parts of the Bearded Needle
3.15 Knitting Action of the Bearded Needle
3.16 The Latch Needle
3.17 Features of the Latch Needle
3.18 Knitting Action of the Latch Needle
3.19 Friction and Frictionless Needles
3.20 The Bi-partite Compound Needle
3.21 Machine Gauge
Chapter 4 Basic Mechanical Principles of Knitting Technology
4.1 The Sinker
4.2 The Jack
4.3 Cam Arrangement
4.4 The Two Methods of Yarn Feeding
4.5 The Three Methods of Forming Yarn into Needle Loops
Chapter 5 Elements of Knitted Loop Structure
5.1 The Needle Loop
5.2 The Sinker Loop
5.3 Warp Knitted Laps
5.4 The Overlap
5.5 The Underlap
5.6 Closed Lap
5.7 Open Lap
5.8 Wrapping
5.9 The Knitted Stitch
5.10 The Intermeshing Points of a Needle Loop
5.11 The Face Loop Stitch
5.12 The Reverse Loop Stitch
5.13 Single-faced Structures
5.14 Double-faced Structures
5.15 A Balanced Structure
5.16 Face and Reverse Stitches on the Same Surface
5.17 Selvedged Fabric
5.18 Cut Edge Fabric
5.19 Tubular Fabric
5.20 Upright Loop Structures
5.21 Knitting Notations
Chapter 6 Comparison of Weft and Warp Knitting
6.1 Yarn Feeding and Loop Formation
6.2 The Two Industries
6.3 Productivity
6.4 Machine Design
6.5 Patterning and Fabric Structures
6.6 Course Length and Run-in Per Rack
6.7 Fabric Quality
6.8 Structural Modifications Commonly Used in Weft and Warp Knitting
6.9 Laying-in
6.10 Plating
6.11 Openwork Structures
6.12 Plush and Pile Constructions
Chapter 7 The Four Primary Base Structures
7.1 Introduction
7.2 Plain
7.3 Production of Single-Jersey Fabric on a Circular Latch Needle Machine
7.4 The Knitting Head
7.5 The Knitting Action
7.6 The Cam System
7.7 Sinker Timing
7.8 Rib Fabric
7.9 Knitting Action of a Circular Rib Machine
7.10 Needle Timing
7.11 Interlock
7.12 Production of Interlock Fabric
7.13 Example of Interlock Cam System
7.14 Purl Fabric
7.15 Purl Needle Transfer Action
7.16 The Use of Dividing Cams
7.17 The Use of Spring-loaded Cams
Chapter 8 The Various Types of Weft Knitting Machines
8.1 Fabric Machines and Garment Length Machines
8.2 Fabric Machines
8.3 Garment Length Machines
8.4 Straight Bar Frames
8.5 Flat Machines
8.6 Circular Machines
8.7 Development of the Circular Weft Knitting Technique
Chapter 9 Stitches Produced by Varying the Timing of the Needle Loop Intermeshing
9.1 The Held Loop
9.2 The Drop or Press-off Stitch
9.3 The Float Stitch
9.4 Float Plating
9.5 The Tuck Stitch
Chapter 10 Colored Stitch Designs in Weft Knitting
10.1 Horizontal Striping
10.2 Intarsia
10.3 Plating
10.4 Individual Stitch Selection
10.5 Weft Knitted Jacquard
10.6 Single-Jersey Jacquard
10.7 Accordion Fabrics
10.8 Rib Jacquard
10.9 Worked Example
Chapter 11 Pattern and Selection Devices
11.1 Different Lengths of Butt
11.2 Different Butt Positions
11.3 Multi-Step Butt Set-Outs
11.4 Selection Devices
11.5 Element Selection
11.6 Selection Area Arrangement
11.7 Full Jacquard Mechanical Needle Selection
11.8 Multi-Step Geometric Selection
11.9 Monofilm Selection
11.10 The Pattern Wheel
11.11 Pattern Design Areas
11.12 Examples of a Pattern Area Calculation
11.13 Argyle Wheels
11.14 Electronic Needle Selection
Chapter 12 Electronics in Knitting
12.1 The Advantage of using Electronics
12.2 Electronic Signals
12.3 Computers
12.4 Micro-miniaturization
12.5 Computer Hardware and Software
12.6 The Main Sections of a Computer
12.7 Input and Output Devices
12.8 Storage
12.9 ROM and RAM
12.10 Bubble Memory
12.11 Tapes and Discs
12.12 Knitting Machine Programming and Control
12.13 Computer Graphics and Pattern Preparation
Chapter 13 The Production of Weft Knitted Fabric
13.1 Simple Tuck and Float Stitch Single-Jersey Fabrics
13.2 History of Double Jersey
13.3 Types of Double-Jersey Structure
13.4 Non-Jacquard Double-Jersey Structures
13.5 Rib Jacquard Double-Jersey Structures
13.6 Double-Jersey Inlay
Chapter 14 Speciality Fabrics and Machines
14.1 The Loop wheel Frame
14.2 The Knitting Cycle to produce one Course of Fleecy
14.3 The Production of Fleecy on Sinker Top Machines
14.4 Fleecy Interlock
14.5 Plush Structures
14.6 The Sinkerwheel Machine
14.7 Knitting Action
14.8 Plush on Sinker Top Latch Needle Machines
14.9 Sliver or High-Pile Knitting
14.10 Wrap Patterning
Chapter 15 Loop Transfer Stitches
15.1 Plain Loop Transfer Stitches
15.2 Fancy Lacing Stitches
15.3 Rib Loop Transfer Stitches
15.4 Rib Loop Transfer on a Circular Garment Length RTR Type Machine
15.5 Pelerine or Eyelet
Chapter 16 Welts, Garment Sequences and Knitting to Shape
16.1 The Welt
16.2 Separation
16.3 Imparting Shape During Knitting
16.4 Wale Fashioning
16.5 The Calculation of Fashioning Frequencies
16.6 Three-Dimensional Wale Fashioning
16.7 Needle Selection Shaping
16.8 Reciprocating Knitting of Pouches
16.9 Shaping by Changing the Knitted Structure
16.10 Shaping by Altering the Stitch Length
Chapter 17 The Straight Bar Frame
17.1 Development of the Straight Bar Frame
17.2 Fully-Fashioned Articles
17.3 Knitting Motions of the Straight Bar Frame
17.4 Knitting Action of the Plain Straight Bar Frame
17.5 Loop Transfer
17.6 Rib-to-Plain Machines
17.7 Patterned Structures
Chapter 18 Flat Knitting Basic Principles and Structures
18.1 History
18.2 Flat Machines
18.3 Yarn Counts
18.4 Simple Hand-Manipulated V-Bed Rib Flat Machines
18.5 The Cam System
18.6 Double Cam Systems
18.7 Direct and Indirect Yarn Feed
18.8 Cardigan Stitches
18.9 Racked Rib Structures
18.10 Knop Structures
18.11 The Cable Stitch
Chapter 19 Automatic Power Flat Knitting
19.1 Mechanically-Controlled Jacquard Knitting
19.2 The Pasteboard Movement Card Reader Unit
19.3 Stoll Selectanit Electronic Selection
19.4 The Dubied Actuator Selection Post
19.5 Multi-Carriage Flat Machines
19.6 The Presser Foot Concept
19.7 Flat Bed Purl Knitting
Chapter 20 Circular Garment Length Machines
20.1 Double-Cylinder Garment Length Machine
20.2 RTR Garment Length Machine
20.3 Dogless Drive and Dial Shogging
20.4 The Basic Elements and Camming Arrangement of the RTR
20.5 The Mecmor Variatex
Chapter 21 The Manufacture of Hosiery on Small Diameter Circular Machines
21.1 Classes of Hosiery Machines
21.2 Development of Seamless Hosiery
21.3 Ladder-Resist Structures
21.4 Development of the Double-Cylinder Machine
21.5 The Slider Butt Set-Out
21.6 Timing and Control of Mechanical Changes on Circular Hosiery Machines
21.7 The Cam Drums
21.8 Adjustment of Loop Length
21.9 Production of Heels and Toes
21.10 Automatic Separation
21.11 Panty-Hose
Chapter 22 Aspects of Knitting Science
22.1 Knitted Loop Shape and Loop Length Control
22.2 Loop Length
22.3 Warp Let-Off
22.4 Weft Knitted Fabric Relaxation and Shrinkage
22.5 Knitted Fabric Geometry
22.6 Tightness Factor
22.7 Robbing Back
22.8 Needle Bounce and High-Speed Knitting
22.9 The Cadratex Unit
Chapter 23 Basic Warp Knitting Principles
23.1 Construction of Warp Knitted Fabrics
23.2 The Warp Beams
23.3 The Guide Bar
23.4 The Guides
23.5 Single Needle Bar Structures
23.6 The Pattern Mechanism
23.7 Chain Links
23.8 Development of Lapping Diagrams and Chain Notations
23.9 Single- or Double-Needle Overlaps
23.10 The Five Basic Overlap/Underlap Variations
23.11 Direction of Lapping at Successive Courses
Chapter 24 Classes of Warp Knitting Machinery
24.1 Characteristics of Tricot and Raschel Machines
24.2 The Knitting Cycle of the Bearded Needle Tricot Machine
24.3 The Raschel Machine
24.4 The Knitting Action of the Single Needle Bar Raschel
24.5 Compound Needle Warp Knitting Machines
24.6 The Crochet Machine
24.7 Warping
Chapter 25 Plain Tricot Structures Knitted with Two Full Set Guide Bars
25.1 Rules Governing Two Guide Bar Structures
25.2 Two Bar Tricot
25.3 Locknit
25.4 Reverse Locknit
25.5 Sharkskin
25.6 Queenscord
25.7 Double Atlas
25.8 Satin
25.9 Velour and Velvet Structures
25.10 Overfed Pile Structures
Chapter 26 Surface Interest, Relief and Openwork Structures
26.1 Miss-Lapping
26.2 Part-Threaded Guide Bars
Chapter 27 Laying-In in Warp Knitting
27.1 General Rules Governing Laying-in in Warp Knitting
27.2 Fall-Plate Patterning
27.3 Full Width Weft Insertion
27.4 Cut Presser and Miss-Press Structures
Chapter 28 Multi-Guide Bar Machines and Fabrics
28.1 Lace, Curtain-Net and Elastic Fabrics
28.2 Pattern Guide Bars
28.3 Nesting
28.4 Multi-Bar Tricot Lace Machines
28.5 Chain Links and Electronic Control of Shogging
28.6 Mesh Structures
28.7 Elasticized Fabrics
28.8 Jacquard Rascheis
Chapter 29 Double Needle Bar Warp Knitting Machines
29.1 Basic Lapping Principles
29.2 The Simplex Machine
29.3 The Double Needle Bar Raschel
29.4 Double Needle Bar Raschel Products
29.5 Knitting Tubular Articles
29.6 Pile Fabrics
Appendix
General Textbooks on Knitting
Textbook Availability
Reference Books
General Information
Index
- Edition: 1
- Latest edition
- Published: January 1, 1983
- Language: English
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