Part I. General View of Cosmetic Science and Technology
Chapter 1. General Aspects of Cosmetics in Relation to Science and Society: Social, Cultural, Science, and Marketing Aspects
- 1.1. Cosmetic Science and Society
- 1.2. The Establishment of Humans and Society
- 1.3. Society and the Foundation of Cosmetic Culture
- 1.4. The Culture of Cosmetics and Establishment of Cosmetic Philosophy: A Case Study in Japan
- 1.5. Progress of Scientific Technology and History of the Cosmetics Industry in Japan
- 1.6. Science, Technology, and Social Demands
- 1.7. Science, Technology, and Marketing
Chapter 2. Global Cosmetic R&D Trends Unveiled From Past IFSCC Award-Winning Papers
- 2.1. Introduction
- 2.2. The International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists
- 2.3. Tracing the History of Articles Presented at IFSCC Congresses/Conferences
- 2.4. Trends Interpreted From Award-Winning Papers
- 2.5. Conclusion
Chapter 3. Basic Physical Sciences for the Formulation of Cosmetic Products
- 3.1. Introduction
- 3.2. The Basic Sciences of Cleansing
Chapter 4. Scouting to Meet Unmet Needs
- 4.1. Introduction
- 4.2. Value of Technology Scouting
- 4.3. Technology Scout
- 4.4. Scouting Organization
- 4.5. Organizational Scouting Models
- 4.6. Scouting Function
- 4.7. General Scouting Process
- 4.8. Challenges
- 4.9. Front-end Homework/Creation of the “Needs” Brief
- 4.10. Scouting Resources
- 4.11. Why Do You Need It?
- 4.12. Conclusions
Chapter 5. New Aspects of Cosmetics and Cosmetic Science
- 5.1. The Scope of Cosmetic Science
- 5.2. Technologies That Support Cosmetic Science
- 5.3. Functions of the Skin
- 5.4. Conclusions
Chapter 6. Psychology of Cosmetic Behavior
- 6.1. Prehistory of Cosmetics
- 6.2. History of Cosmetics
- 6.3. Psychology of Skin Care
- 6.4. Psychology of Makeup
- 6.5. Psychology of Fragrance
- 6.6. Cosmetic Behavior as an Emotion Control Device
Chapter 7. Dermatological Benefits of Cosmetics
- 7.1. Introduction
- 7.2. Skin Care Products
- 7.3. Antiwrinkle and Antiaging Agents
- 7.4. Acne Cosmetics
- 7.5. Hair Growth Agent
- 7.6. Antiperspirants and Deodorants
- 7.7. Makeup Products
- 7.8. Conclusions
Chapter 8. Development of Cosmetics and Intellectual Property Rights
- 8.1. Introduction
- 8.2. The Need for Intellectual Property Rights
- 8.3. What Is an Intellectual Property Right?
- 8.4. Chapter I Patent Law
- 8.5. Chapter II Design Patent Law
- 8.6. Chapter III Trademark Law
- 8.7. Chapter IV Copyrights
- 8.8. Chapter V Unfair Competition Prevention Law
- 8.9. Chapter VI Cooperative Research and Development Agreement in Research and Development of Cosmetics
- 8.10. In Conclusion
Chapter 9. Regulations on Cosmetics
- 9.1. Introduction
- 9.2. Regulations on Cosmetics per Region
- 9.3. Labeling
- 9.4. Cosmetics Ingredient Restrictions
- 9.5. Closing Remarks
Part II. Fundamental Resources for Cosmetics
Chapter 10. Introduction to Cosmetic Materials
- 10.1. Introduction
- 10.2. Purposes of Cosmetic Materials
- 10.3. Precautions on Choosing and Using Cosmetic Ingredients
- 10.4. Future Challenges in Cosmetics Material Development
- 10.5. Closing Remarks
Chapter 11. Nomenclature of Ingredients
- 11.1. Introduction
- 11.2. History
- 11.3. INCI Basics
- 11.4. Botanical Names
- 11.5. INCI Names and CAS
- 11.6. INCI Names and CosIng
- 11.7. Applying for an INCI Name
- 11.8. Conclusions
Chapter 12. Water
- 12.1. Introduction
- 12.2. Basic Physical Properties and Biological Roles of Water
- 12.3. Cell Membranes and Water
- 12.4. The Skin and Water
- 12.5. Conclusions
Chapter 13. The Use of Polymers in Cosmetic Products
- 13.1. Rheology Modifiers
- 13.2. Precise Molecular Tailoring for Simultaneous Enablement of Contrasting Qualities
- 13.3. Polymers That Modify Surfaces
- 13.4. Transfer-Resistant Color Cosmetics
- 13.5. Film-Forming Polymers in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products
- 13.6. Hair-Conditioning Polymers
- 13.7. Polymers for the Treatment of Skin
- 13.8. Polymers as Controlled Release Matrices
- 13.9. Dendritic Polymers
- 13.10. Polymeric Antimicrobials and Bacteriostats
- 13.11. Environmental and Ecological Considerations
- 13.12. Summary
Chapter 14. Powders and Inorganic Materials
- 14.1. History of Powders in Cosmetics
- 14.2. Powders Used in Cosmetics
- 14.3. Conclusions
Chapter 15. Surfactants
- 15.1. Introduction
- 15.2. Characteristics and Classification of Surfactants
- 15.3. Micellization of Surfactants
- 15.4. Solubility of Surfactants
- 15.5. Adsorption of Surfactants
- 15.6. Mixed Surfactant Systems
- 15.7. Conclusions
Chapter 16. Emollients
- 16.1. Introduction
- 16.2. Types of Emollients
- 16.3. Evaluation of Emollients
- 16.4. The Future of Emollients
Chapter 17. Bioactive Ingredients: Benefits of Cosmetics Stimulated Through Biological Aspects
- 17.1. Introduction
- 17.2. Development Directions of Bioactive Ingredients
- 17.3. Overview of Pigmented Spots
- 17.4. Overview of Antiaging Focusing on Wrinkling
- 17.5. Conclusions
Chapter 18. Fragrance
- 18.1. Introduction
- 18.2. Natural Products
- 18.3. Aroma Chemicals
- 18.4. Fragrance Creation and Duplication
- 18.5. Polarity
- 18.6. Fragrance Applications
- 18.7. Physical Chemistry of Aroma Chemicals
- 18.8. Encapsulation and Controlled Release
- 18.9. Antibacterial Effects of Essential Oils
- 18.10. Malodor
- 18.11. Safety and Regulatory Concerns
- 18.12. The Regulation of Fragrance
- 18.13. Natural, Green, Organic, and Sustainable Fragrances
- 18.14. Fragrance and the Mind
- 18.15. The Fragrance Brief
- 18.16. Conclusions
- 18.17. A Basic Fragrance Library
Chapter 19. Amino Acids, Peptides, and Proteins
- 19.1. Introduction
- 19.2. Chemistry of Amino Acids, Peptides, and Proteins
- 19.3. Proteins and Amino Acids as Biochemical Compounds
- 19.4. Amino Acids in Cosmetics
- 19.5. Peptides in Cosmetics
- 19.6. Proteins in Cosmetics
- 19.7. Conclusions
Chapter 20. Botanical Ingredients
- 20.1. Introduction
- 20.2. Botanical Substances
- 20.3. Regulations Regarding Botanical Substances
- 20.4. Organic Cosmetics
- 20.5. The Effectiveness of Botanical Substances
- 20.6. The Future and Challenges in Botanical Substance Development
- 20.7. Closing Remarks
Chapter 21. Functional Materials for Hair
- 21.1. Introduction
- 21.2. Functional Materials for Hair Shampoos
- 21.3. Co-Washing/Conditioning Washing/Cleansing Conditioners
- 21.4. Mild Shampoos
- 21.5. Alternatives for Sulfates
- 21.6. Pre-Damage/Pre-Shampoos
- 21.7. Conditioners
- 21.8. Interactions With Hair
- 21.9. Hair Damage and Its Causes
- 21.10. Conditioning Polymers: Silicone Oils and Derivatives
- 21.11. Silicone-Free Alternatives
- 21.12. Leading Global Hair Care Market Trends
- 21.13. New Age of Connectivity
- 21.14. Products Having “Free-From” Claims
- 21.15. Botanical/Herbal Ingredients
- 21.16. Sun Care–Inspired Solutions: Ultraviolet Protection
- 21.17. Skin Care–Inspired Solutions: Antipollution/Reconstruction
- 21.18. Color Statements/Protection/Renewal
- 21.19. Antiaging
- 21.20. Scalp Protecting
- 21.21. Sensorial Experience: Long-Lasting Fragrance
- 21.22. Sustainable Solutions: Use of Natural/Renewable Ingredients/New Product Forms
- 21.23. Consumer Needs and Drivers
- 21.24. Conclusions
Chapter 22. Nanotechnology in Cosmetics
- 22.1. Introduction
- 22.2. Skin Structure and Function
- 22.3. Major Nanocosmeceutical Applications
- 22.4. Nanoparticles Used in Cosmetics
- 22.5. Toxicity of Nanoparticles
- 22.6. Safety Requisites for a Blooming Beauty
- 22.7. Nanomaterials and the EU Cosmetics Regulations
- 22.8. Nanocosmeceuticals in Market
- 22.9. Future Trends in Nanocosmeceuticals
- 22.10. Conclusions
Part III. Physicochemical Aspects and Formulations
Chapter 23. Wetting and Surface Characterization
- 23.1. Introduction
- 23.2. Wetting on the Flat Surfaces
- 23.3. Wetting on Rough Surfaces
- 23.4. Super Water- and Oil-Repellent Surfaces Resulting From Fractal Structure
- 23.5. Wetting Phenomena in Cosmetic Science and Technology
- 23.6. Future Perspectives on the Wetting Technologies in Cosmetics
Chapter 24. Molecular Structure and Phase Behavior of Surfactants
- 24.1. Introduction
- 24.2. Notations in Phase Diagram
- 24.3. Phase Diagram in Surfactant System
- 24.4. Self-Organized Structure
- 24.5. Anionic Surfactants
- 24.6. Cationic Surfactants
- 24.7. Nonionic Surfactants
- 24.8. Sugar-Based Surfactants
- 24.9. Conclusions
Chapter 25. Lamellar Gel Network
- 25.1. Introduction
- 25.2. Unique Advantages of Lamellar Gel Networks
- 25.3. α-Gel
- 25.4. Cetostearyl Alcohol
- 25.5. Surfactants for Lamellar Gel Networks
- 25.6. Multiphase Network Structure
- 25.7. Lamellar Gel (Lβ) Phase
- 25.8. Bulk Water Phase
- 25.9. Oil Phase
- 25.10. Fatty Alcohol Hydrated Crystal
- 25.11. Stability of Lamellar Gel Network
- 25.12. Formulation Spaces of Various Lamellar Gel Networks
- 25.13. Summary
Chapter 26. Polymer–Surfactant Interactions
- 26.1. Introduction
- 26.2. Homopolymer–Ionic Surfactant Systems Show Association
- 26.3. Polyelectrolyte–Surfactant Systems May Show Two-Step Association
- 26.4. Amphiphilic Polymer Self-assembly
- 26.5. Phase Separation Is Common for Polymer–Surfactant Mixtures
- 26.6. Gels: Thermal Gelation, Chemical Gels, and Microgel Particles
- 26.7. Surfactant–Polyelectrolyte Mixtures at Interfaces
Chapter 27. Rheology of Cosmetic Formulations
- 27.1. Introduction
- 27.2. Rheological Parameters and Their Measurements
- 27.3. Surfactant Solutions, Their Micellar Structures and Rheological Properties
- 27.4. Surfactant Solutions and Additives
- 27.5. Microemulsions
- 27.6. Emulsions
- 27.7. Hydrogels and Organogels
- 27.8. Foams
- 27.9. Liquid Crystals
Chapter 28. Emulsion and Emulsification Technology
- 28.1. Introduction
- 28.2. Definition and Classification of Emulsion
- 28.3. Properties of Surfactant on Emulsification
- 28.4. Selection of Emulsifier Suitable for Applications: Hydrophile–Lipophile Balance Number
- 28.5. Hydrophile–Lipophile Balance Number of Oil (Required HLB Number)
- 28.6. Destabilizing Factors of Emulsions and Their Handling Methods
- 28.7. Emulsification Methods
- 28.8. Conclusion
Chapter 29. Microemulsions and Nano-emulsions for Cosmetic Applications
- 29.1. Introduction
- 29.2. Microemulsions
- 29.3. Nano-emulsions
- 29.4. Cosmetic Applications of Microemulsions and Nano-emulsions
- 29.5. Microemulsion and Nano-emulsion Components
- 29.6. Percutaneous Absorption of Actives From Microemulsions and Nano-emulsions
- 29.7. Conclusions
Chapter 30. Effect of Molecular Assembly for Emulsion and Gel Formulations
- 30.1. Introduction
- 30.2. Formation and the Characterization of Lyotropic Liquid Crystals and α-Gels
- 30.3. Molecular Assembly and Emulsion
- 30.4. Liquid Crystal Emulsification
- 30.5. Application of Molecular Assemblies to Functional Cosmetics
- 30.6. Conclusions
Chapter 31. Liposomes for Cosmetics
- 31.1. Introduction
- 31.2. Property of Phospholipids
- 31.3. Liposomes
- 31.4. Liposome Formation Conditions
- 31.5. Morphology of Liposomes
- 31.6. Stability of Liposomes
- 31.7. Effectiveness of Liposome Formulations
- 31.8. Cutaneous Absorption of Liposome Formulations
- 31.9. Closing Remarks
Chapter 32. Skin Care Cosmetics
- 32.1. Introduction
- 32.2. Functions of Skin Care Cosmetics
- 32.3. Structuring Components and Technology of Skin Care Cosmetics
- 32.4. Solubilization
- 32.5. Ultrafine Emulsification
- 32.6. Emulsions
- 32.7. Emulsification
- 32.8. Recent Progress of Oil-in-Water Emulsification in Skin Care Cosmetics
- 32.9. Conclusion
Chapter 33. Body Care Cosmetics
- 33.1. Introduction
- 33.2. Body Cleansers
- 33.3. Mildness to Skin and Sensory Feeling
- 33.4. Foaming Technology
- 33.5. Reconsideration for Satisfying Both Detergency and Skin Mildness
- 33.6. Conclusion
Chapter 34. Makeup Cosmetics
- 34.1. Introduction
- 34.2. Types and Characteristics of Foundations
- 34.3. Makeup Finishes
- 34.4. Other Factors
- 34.5. Conclusion
Chapter 35. Ultraviolet Care Cosmetics
- 35.1. Importance of Sun Care Cosmetics
- 35.2. Sunscreen Agents
- 35.3. Required Functionality as Sun Care Cosmetics
- 35.4. Evaluation and Declaration of Sunscreen Capacity for Cosmetics
- 35.5. Summary
Chapter 36. Hair Care Cosmetics
- 36.1. Functions of Hair Care Cosmetics
- 36.2. Shampoos
- 36.3. Hair Conditioners
- 36.4. Hair Styling Products
- 36.5. Hair Coloring Products
- 36.6. Permanent Hair Waving Products
- 36.7. Conclusions
Chapter 37. Sensory Measurement—Evaluation and Testing of Cosmetic Products
- 37.1. Introduction—Why Sensory Analysis?
- 37.2. Haptic—Sensory Fundamentals
- 37.3. Application of Sensory for Cosmetics
- 37.4. Influence of Raw Material Formulation on the Sensor
- 37.5. Procedures and General Factors Influencing Sensory Test Methods
- 37.6. Methods
- 37.7. Focus Test Requirements of the Descriptive Profile Test
- 37.8. Future Outlook
Chapter 38. Structural Analysis of Formulations
- 38.1. Introduction
- 38.2. Colloidal Dispersion System
- 38.3. Characterization of Colloids
- 38.4. Micelles
- 38.5. Liquid Crystals
- 38.6. Emulsions
- 38.7. Conclusion
Chapter 39. Increasing Productivity by Reducing Carbon Footprint in Cosmetics Processing
- 39.1. Introduction
- 39.2. Understanding the Nature and Effects of Variables
- 39.3. The Principle of Less Is More
- 39.4. Low-Energy Emulsification
- 39.5. Different Ways to Carry Out Low-Energy Emulsification
- 39.6. The Importance of Finding the Z-Point
- 39.7. An Example of “Less Is More” Low-Energy Emulsification Processing
- 39.8. Low-Energy Emulsification to Prevent Batch Failure, Improve Product Quality, and Save Energy
- 39.9. Using Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance Method to Find Optimal Surfactant Combinations for Emulsification
- 3.10. Solubilization Method in Low-Surfactant Emulsification
- 39.11. Other Applications of “Less Is More” Principle and Low-Energy Emulsification
- 39.12. Conclusions
Part IV. Physiological and Dermatological Aspects
Chapter 40. Structure and Function of Skin From a Cosmetic Aspect
- 40.1. Introduction
- 40.2. Role of the Skin
- 40.3. Fundamental Structure of the Skin
- 40.4. Epidermis
- 40.5. Dermis
- 40.6. Appendages
- 40.7. Regional Variation of the Skin
- 40.8. Barrier Functions of the Skin
- 40.9. Conclusions
Chapter 41. Skin Lipids
- 41.1. Introduction
- 41.2. Lipids in Skin
- 41.3. Epidermal Lipid Synthesis
- 41.4. Skin Surface Lipid
- 41.5. Lipid Mediators
- 41.6. Lipids in Cosmetics
- 41.7. Barrier Care (Repair) Using Cosmetics to Improve Skin Disease
Chapter 42. Structural Aspects of Stratum Corneum
- 42.1. Introduction
- 42.2. X-ray Diffraction Study on Stratum Corneum
- 42.3. Highly Sensitive Detection of Minute Structural Change on Applying Chemical Agents
- 42.4. Penetration Route of Hydrophilic Molecules in Stratum Corneum
- 42.5. Penetration Route of Hydrophobic Molecules in Stratum Corneum
- 42.6. Behavior of Water in Stratum Corneum
- 42.7. Water Regulation Mechanism in Stratum Corneum at the Molecular Level
Chapter 43. Skin Aging
- 43.1. Difference Between Aging and Senescence
- 43.2. Senescence From the Molecular Level to the Systemic Level
- 43.3. Progress and Issues in Senescence Research
- 43.4. Chronic Inflammation and Senescence
- 43.5. Sirtuin and Resveratrol
- 43.6. Strategies in Research on Skin Aging
- 43.7. Issues to be Resolved and Future Considerations
Chapter 44. Melanogenesis
- 44.1. Introduction
- 44.2. Instances of Skin-Lightening QDs Developed in Japan
- 44.3. Conclusions
Chapter 45. Sensitive Skin
- 45.1. Introduction
- 45.2. Assessment of Sensitive Skin
- 45.3. Conclusions
Chapter 46. Skin Penetration
- 46.1. Introduction
- 46.2. A Little Bit About History
- 46.3. Skin Structure/Properties
- 46.4. Factors Affecting the Skin Barrier
- 46.5. Assessing the Skin Barrier
- 46.6. Overcoming the Skin Barrier
- 46.7. Skin Penetration
- 46.8. Evaluation of Skin Penetration
- 46.9. Future Directions
Chapter 47. Effects of Air Pollution on Skin: Dermatologic Options
- 47.1. Introduction
- 47.2. Materials and Methods
- 47.3. Results
- 47.4. Discussion
- 47.5. Conclusions and Future Considerations
Chapter 48. Hair Physiology (Hair Growth, Alopecia, Scalp Treatment, etc.)
- 48.1. Introduction
- 48.2. Basic Concepts, Hair Biology, Cause of Hair Loss, and Treatments
- 48.3. Hair Growth–Promoting Compounds
- 48.4. Light-Emitting Diodes, Lasers, and Other Cosmetic Surgeries
- 48.5. Growth Factor Cocktail, Cell Culture Media Injection, and Platelet-Rich Plasma
- 48.6. Hair Transplantation
- 48.7. Future Treatment in Cosmetics: Regeneration of Hair Follicles by Autologous Cell-Based Therapy for Hair Loss
- 48.8. Summary and Future Directions
Chapter 49. Clinical Evaluation and Instrumental Techniques in Dermatology
Chapter 50. Safety Evaluation
- 50.1. Introduction
- 50.2. What Is Safety?
- 50.3. How Should We Consider the Safety of Cosmetics and Their Ingredients?
- 50.4. To What Extent We Should Assure the Safety of Cosmetics?
- 50.5. Process of Safety Evaluation
- 50.6. Implementation of Safety Tests
- 50.7. Reevaluation After Launch
- 50.8. Conclusion
Chapter 51. Safety Assessment of Cosmetic Ingredients
- 51.1. Introduction
- 51.2. Toxicological Study
- 51.3. Current Update
- 51.4. International Test Guidelines
- 51.5. International Trends in Regulatory Use for Cosmetics
- 51.6. Conclusion