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Cosmetic Science and Technology: Theoretical Principles and Applications
- 1st Edition - March 3, 2017
- Editors: Kazutami Sakamoto, Robert Y. Lochhead, Howard I. Maibach, Yuji Yamashita
- Language: English
- Hardback ISBN:9 7 8 - 0 - 1 2 - 8 0 2 0 0 5 - 0
- eBook ISBN:9 7 8 - 0 - 1 2 - 8 0 2 0 5 4 - 8
Cosmetic Science and Technology: Theoretical Principles and Applications covers the fundamental aspects of cosmetic science that are necessary to understand material developme… Read more
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Request a sales quoteCosmetic Science and Technology: Theoretical Principles and Applications covers the fundamental aspects of cosmetic science that are necessary to understand material development, formulation, and the dermatological effects that result from the use of these products. The book fulfills this role by offering a comprehensive view of cosmetic science and technology, including environmental and dermatological concerns.
As the cosmetics field quickly applies cutting-edge research to high value commercial products that have a large impact in our lives and on the world's economy, this book is an indispensable source of information that is ideal for experienced researchers and scientists, as well as non-scientists who want to learn more about this topic on an introductory level.
- Covers the science, preparation, function, and interaction of cosmetic products with skin
- Addresses safety and environmental concerns related to cosmetics and their use
- Provides a graphical summary with short introductory explanation for each topic
- Relates product type performance to its main components
- Describes manufacturing methods of oral care cosmetics and body cosmetics in a systematic manner
Chemical engineers, chemists, physical chemists and cosmetic chemists in cosmetics research and development, dermatologists, toxicologists
Part I. General View of Cosmetic Science and Technology
Chapter 1. General Aspects of Cosmetics in Relation to Science and Society: Social, Cultural, Science, and Marketing Aspects
- 1.1. Cosmetic Science and Society
- 1.2. The Establishment of Humans and Society
- 1.3. Society and the Foundation of Cosmetic Culture
- 1.4. The Culture of Cosmetics and Establishment of Cosmetic Philosophy: A Case Study in Japan
- 1.5. Progress of Scientific Technology and History of the Cosmetics Industry in Japan
- 1.6. Science, Technology, and Social Demands
- 1.7. Science, Technology, and Marketing
Chapter 2. Global Cosmetic R&D Trends Unveiled From Past IFSCC Award-Winning Papers
- 2.1. Introduction
- 2.2. The International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists
- 2.3. Tracing the History of Articles Presented at IFSCC Congresses/Conferences
- 2.4. Trends Interpreted From Award-Winning Papers
- 2.5. Conclusion
Chapter 3. Basic Physical Sciences for the Formulation of Cosmetic Products
- 3.1. Introduction
- 3.2. The Basic Sciences of Cleansing
Chapter 4. Scouting to Meet Unmet Needs
- 4.1. Introduction
- 4.2. Value of Technology Scouting
- 4.3. Technology Scout
- 4.4. Scouting Organization
- 4.5. Organizational Scouting Models
- 4.6. Scouting Function
- 4.7. General Scouting Process
- 4.8. Challenges
- 4.9. Front-end Homework/Creation of the “Needs” Brief
- 4.10. Scouting Resources
- 4.11. Why Do You Need It?
- 4.12. Conclusions
Chapter 5. New Aspects of Cosmetics and Cosmetic Science
- 5.1. The Scope of Cosmetic Science
- 5.2. Technologies That Support Cosmetic Science
- 5.3. Functions of the Skin
- 5.4. Conclusions
Chapter 6. Psychology of Cosmetic Behavior
- 6.1. Prehistory of Cosmetics
- 6.2. History of Cosmetics
- 6.3. Psychology of Skin Care
- 6.4. Psychology of Makeup
- 6.5. Psychology of Fragrance
- 6.6. Cosmetic Behavior as an Emotion Control Device
Chapter 7. Dermatological Benefits of Cosmetics
- 7.1. Introduction
- 7.2. Skin Care Products
- 7.3. Antiwrinkle and Antiaging Agents
- 7.4. Acne Cosmetics
- 7.5. Hair Growth Agent
- 7.6. Antiperspirants and Deodorants
- 7.7. Makeup Products
- 7.8. Conclusions
Chapter 8. Development of Cosmetics and Intellectual Property Rights
- 8.1. Introduction
- 8.2. The Need for Intellectual Property Rights
- 8.3. What Is an Intellectual Property Right?
- 8.4. Chapter I Patent Law
- 8.5. Chapter II Design Patent Law
- 8.6. Chapter III Trademark Law
- 8.7. Chapter IV Copyrights
- 8.8. Chapter V Unfair Competition Prevention Law
- 8.9. Chapter VI Cooperative Research and Development Agreement in Research and Development of Cosmetics
- 8.10. In Conclusion
Chapter 9. Regulations on Cosmetics
- 9.1. Introduction
- 9.2. Regulations on Cosmetics per Region
- 9.3. Labeling
- 9.4. Cosmetics Ingredient Restrictions
- 9.5. Closing Remarks
Part II. Fundamental Resources for Cosmetics
Chapter 10. Introduction to Cosmetic Materials
- 10.1. Introduction
- 10.2. Purposes of Cosmetic Materials
- 10.3. Precautions on Choosing and Using Cosmetic Ingredients
- 10.4. Future Challenges in Cosmetics Material Development
- 10.5. Closing Remarks
Chapter 11. Nomenclature of Ingredients
- 11.1. Introduction
- 11.2. History
- 11.3. INCI Basics
- 11.4. Botanical Names
- 11.5. INCI Names and CAS
- 11.6. INCI Names and CosIng
- 11.7. Applying for an INCI Name
- 11.8. Conclusions
Chapter 12. Water
- 12.1. Introduction
- 12.2. Basic Physical Properties and Biological Roles of Water
- 12.3. Cell Membranes and Water
- 12.4. The Skin and Water
- 12.5. Conclusions
Chapter 13. The Use of Polymers in Cosmetic Products
- 13.1. Rheology Modifiers
- 13.2. Precise Molecular Tailoring for Simultaneous Enablement of Contrasting Qualities
- 13.3. Polymers That Modify Surfaces
- 13.4. Transfer-Resistant Color Cosmetics
- 13.5. Film-Forming Polymers in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products
- 13.6. Hair-Conditioning Polymers
- 13.7. Polymers for the Treatment of Skin
- 13.8. Polymers as Controlled Release Matrices
- 13.9. Dendritic Polymers
- 13.10. Polymeric Antimicrobials and Bacteriostats
- 13.11. Environmental and Ecological Considerations
- 13.12. Summary
Chapter 14. Powders and Inorganic Materials
- 14.1. History of Powders in Cosmetics
- 14.2. Powders Used in Cosmetics
- 14.3. Conclusions
Chapter 15. Surfactants
- 15.1. Introduction
- 15.2. Characteristics and Classification of Surfactants
- 15.3. Micellization of Surfactants
- 15.4. Solubility of Surfactants
- 15.5. Adsorption of Surfactants
- 15.6. Mixed Surfactant Systems
- 15.7. Conclusions
Chapter 16. Emollients
- 16.1. Introduction
- 16.2. Types of Emollients
- 16.3. Evaluation of Emollients
- 16.4. The Future of Emollients
Chapter 17. Bioactive Ingredients: Benefits of Cosmetics Stimulated Through Biological Aspects
- 17.1. Introduction
- 17.2. Development Directions of Bioactive Ingredients
- 17.3. Overview of Pigmented Spots
- 17.4. Overview of Antiaging Focusing on Wrinkling
- 17.5. Conclusions
Chapter 18. Fragrance
- 18.1. Introduction
- 18.2. Natural Products
- 18.3. Aroma Chemicals
- 18.4. Fragrance Creation and Duplication
- 18.5. Polarity
- 18.6. Fragrance Applications
- 18.7. Physical Chemistry of Aroma Chemicals
- 18.8. Encapsulation and Controlled Release
- 18.9. Antibacterial Effects of Essential Oils
- 18.10. Malodor
- 18.11. Safety and Regulatory Concerns
- 18.12. The Regulation of Fragrance
- 18.13. Natural, Green, Organic, and Sustainable Fragrances
- 18.14. Fragrance and the Mind
- 18.15. The Fragrance Brief
- 18.16. Conclusions
- 18.17. A Basic Fragrance Library
Chapter 19. Amino Acids, Peptides, and Proteins
- 19.1. Introduction
- 19.2. Chemistry of Amino Acids, Peptides, and Proteins
- 19.3. Proteins and Amino Acids as Biochemical Compounds
- 19.4. Amino Acids in Cosmetics
- 19.5. Peptides in Cosmetics
- 19.6. Proteins in Cosmetics
- 19.7. Conclusions
Chapter 20. Botanical Ingredients
- 20.1. Introduction
- 20.2. Botanical Substances
- 20.3. Regulations Regarding Botanical Substances
- 20.4. Organic Cosmetics
- 20.5. The Effectiveness of Botanical Substances
- 20.6. The Future and Challenges in Botanical Substance Development
- 20.7. Closing Remarks
Chapter 21. Functional Materials for Hair
- 21.1. Introduction
- 21.2. Functional Materials for Hair Shampoos
- 21.3. Co-Washing/Conditioning Washing/Cleansing Conditioners
- 21.4. Mild Shampoos
- 21.5. Alternatives for Sulfates
- 21.6. Pre-Damage/Pre-Shampoos
- 21.7. Conditioners
- 21.8. Interactions With Hair
- 21.9. Hair Damage and Its Causes
- 21.10. Conditioning Polymers: Silicone Oils and Derivatives
- 21.11. Silicone-Free Alternatives
- 21.12. Leading Global Hair Care Market Trends
- 21.13. New Age of Connectivity
- 21.14. Products Having “Free-From” Claims
- 21.15. Botanical/Herbal Ingredients
- 21.16. Sun Care–Inspired Solutions: Ultraviolet Protection
- 21.17. Skin Care–Inspired Solutions: Antipollution/Reconstruction
- 21.18. Color Statements/Protection/Renewal
- 21.19. Antiaging
- 21.20. Scalp Protecting
- 21.21. Sensorial Experience: Long-Lasting Fragrance
- 21.22. Sustainable Solutions: Use of Natural/Renewable Ingredients/New Product Forms
- 21.23. Consumer Needs and Drivers
- 21.24. Conclusions
Chapter 22. Nanotechnology in Cosmetics
- 22.1. Introduction
- 22.2. Skin Structure and Function
- 22.3. Major Nanocosmeceutical Applications
- 22.4. Nanoparticles Used in Cosmetics
- 22.5. Toxicity of Nanoparticles
- 22.6. Safety Requisites for a Blooming Beauty
- 22.7. Nanomaterials and the EU Cosmetics Regulations
- 22.8. Nanocosmeceuticals in Market
- 22.9. Future Trends in Nanocosmeceuticals
- 22.10. Conclusions
Part III. Physicochemical Aspects and Formulations
Chapter 23. Wetting and Surface Characterization
- 23.1. Introduction
- 23.2. Wetting on the Flat Surfaces
- 23.3. Wetting on Rough Surfaces
- 23.4. Super Water- and Oil-Repellent Surfaces Resulting From Fractal Structure
- 23.5. Wetting Phenomena in Cosmetic Science and Technology
- 23.6. Future Perspectives on the Wetting Technologies in Cosmetics
Chapter 24. Molecular Structure and Phase Behavior of Surfactants
- 24.1. Introduction
- 24.2. Notations in Phase Diagram
- 24.3. Phase Diagram in Surfactant System
- 24.4. Self-Organized Structure
- 24.5. Anionic Surfactants
- 24.6. Cationic Surfactants
- 24.7. Nonionic Surfactants
- 24.8. Sugar-Based Surfactants
- 24.9. Conclusions
Chapter 25. Lamellar Gel Network
- 25.1. Introduction
- 25.2. Unique Advantages of Lamellar Gel Networks
- 25.3. α-Gel
- 25.4. Cetostearyl Alcohol
- 25.5. Surfactants for Lamellar Gel Networks
- 25.6. Multiphase Network Structure
- 25.7. Lamellar Gel (Lβ) Phase
- 25.8. Bulk Water Phase
- 25.9. Oil Phase
- 25.10. Fatty Alcohol Hydrated Crystal
- 25.11. Stability of Lamellar Gel Network
- 25.12. Formulation Spaces of Various Lamellar Gel Networks
- 25.13. Summary
Chapter 26. Polymer–Surfactant Interactions
- 26.1. Introduction
- 26.2. Homopolymer–Ionic Surfactant Systems Show Association
- 26.3. Polyelectrolyte–Surfactant Systems May Show Two-Step Association
- 26.4. Amphiphilic Polymer Self-assembly
- 26.5. Phase Separation Is Common for Polymer–Surfactant Mixtures
- 26.6. Gels: Thermal Gelation, Chemical Gels, and Microgel Particles
- 26.7. Surfactant–Polyelectrolyte Mixtures at Interfaces
Chapter 27. Rheology of Cosmetic Formulations
- 27.1. Introduction
- 27.2. Rheological Parameters and Their Measurements
- 27.3. Surfactant Solutions, Their Micellar Structures and Rheological Properties
- 27.4. Surfactant Solutions and Additives
- 27.5. Microemulsions
- 27.6. Emulsions
- 27.7. Hydrogels and Organogels
- 27.8. Foams
- 27.9. Liquid Crystals
Chapter 28. Emulsion and Emulsification Technology
- 28.1. Introduction
- 28.2. Definition and Classification of Emulsion
- 28.3. Properties of Surfactant on Emulsification
- 28.4. Selection of Emulsifier Suitable for Applications: Hydrophile–Lipophile Balance Number
- 28.5. Hydrophile–Lipophile Balance Number of Oil (Required HLB Number)
- 28.6. Destabilizing Factors of Emulsions and Their Handling Methods
- 28.7. Emulsification Methods
- 28.8. Conclusion
Chapter 29. Microemulsions and Nano-emulsions for Cosmetic Applications
- 29.1. Introduction
- 29.2. Microemulsions
- 29.3. Nano-emulsions
- 29.4. Cosmetic Applications of Microemulsions and Nano-emulsions
- 29.5. Microemulsion and Nano-emulsion Components
- 29.6. Percutaneous Absorption of Actives From Microemulsions and Nano-emulsions
- 29.7. Conclusions
Chapter 30. Effect of Molecular Assembly for Emulsion and Gel Formulations
- 30.1. Introduction
- 30.2. Formation and the Characterization of Lyotropic Liquid Crystals and α-Gels
- 30.3. Molecular Assembly and Emulsion
- 30.4. Liquid Crystal Emulsification
- 30.5. Application of Molecular Assemblies to Functional Cosmetics
- 30.6. Conclusions
Chapter 31. Liposomes for Cosmetics
- 31.1. Introduction
- 31.2. Property of Phospholipids
- 31.3. Liposomes
- 31.4. Liposome Formation Conditions
- 31.5. Morphology of Liposomes
- 31.6. Stability of Liposomes
- 31.7. Effectiveness of Liposome Formulations
- 31.8. Cutaneous Absorption of Liposome Formulations
- 31.9. Closing Remarks
Chapter 32. Skin Care Cosmetics
- 32.1. Introduction
- 32.2. Functions of Skin Care Cosmetics
- 32.3. Structuring Components and Technology of Skin Care Cosmetics
- 32.4. Solubilization
- 32.5. Ultrafine Emulsification
- 32.6. Emulsions
- 32.7. Emulsification
- 32.8. Recent Progress of Oil-in-Water Emulsification in Skin Care Cosmetics
- 32.9. Conclusion
Chapter 33. Body Care Cosmetics
- 33.1. Introduction
- 33.2. Body Cleansers
- 33.3. Mildness to Skin and Sensory Feeling
- 33.4. Foaming Technology
- 33.5. Reconsideration for Satisfying Both Detergency and Skin Mildness
- 33.6. Conclusion
Chapter 34. Makeup Cosmetics
- 34.1. Introduction
- 34.2. Types and Characteristics of Foundations
- 34.3. Makeup Finishes
- 34.4. Other Factors
- 34.5. Conclusion
Chapter 35. Ultraviolet Care Cosmetics
- 35.1. Importance of Sun Care Cosmetics
- 35.2. Sunscreen Agents
- 35.3. Required Functionality as Sun Care Cosmetics
- 35.4. Evaluation and Declaration of Sunscreen Capacity for Cosmetics
- 35.5. Summary
Chapter 36. Hair Care Cosmetics
- 36.1. Functions of Hair Care Cosmetics
- 36.2. Shampoos
- 36.3. Hair Conditioners
- 36.4. Hair Styling Products
- 36.5. Hair Coloring Products
- 36.6. Permanent Hair Waving Products
- 36.7. Conclusions
Chapter 37. Sensory Measurement—Evaluation and Testing of Cosmetic Products
- 37.1. Introduction—Why Sensory Analysis?
- 37.2. Haptic—Sensory Fundamentals
- 37.3. Application of Sensory for Cosmetics
- 37.4. Influence of Raw Material Formulation on the Sensor
- 37.5. Procedures and General Factors Influencing Sensory Test Methods
- 37.6. Methods
- 37.7. Focus Test Requirements of the Descriptive Profile Test
- 37.8. Future Outlook
Chapter 38. Structural Analysis of Formulations
- 38.1. Introduction
- 38.2. Colloidal Dispersion System
- 38.3. Characterization of Colloids
- 38.4. Micelles
- 38.5. Liquid Crystals
- 38.6. Emulsions
- 38.7. Conclusion
Chapter 39. Increasing Productivity by Reducing Carbon Footprint in Cosmetics Processing
- 39.1. Introduction
- 39.2. Understanding the Nature and Effects of Variables
- 39.3. The Principle of Less Is More
- 39.4. Low-Energy Emulsification
- 39.5. Different Ways to Carry Out Low-Energy Emulsification
- 39.6. The Importance of Finding the Z-Point
- 39.7. An Example of “Less Is More” Low-Energy Emulsification Processing
- 39.8. Low-Energy Emulsification to Prevent Batch Failure, Improve Product Quality, and Save Energy
- 39.9. Using Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance Method to Find Optimal Surfactant Combinations for Emulsification
- 3.10. Solubilization Method in Low-Surfactant Emulsification
- 39.11. Other Applications of “Less Is More” Principle and Low-Energy Emulsification
- 39.12. Conclusions
Part IV. Physiological and Dermatological Aspects
Chapter 40. Structure and Function of Skin From a Cosmetic Aspect
- 40.1. Introduction
- 40.2. Role of the Skin
- 40.3. Fundamental Structure of the Skin
- 40.4. Epidermis
- 40.5. Dermis
- 40.6. Appendages
- 40.7. Regional Variation of the Skin
- 40.8. Barrier Functions of the Skin
- 40.9. Conclusions
Chapter 41. Skin Lipids
- 41.1. Introduction
- 41.2. Lipids in Skin
- 41.3. Epidermal Lipid Synthesis
- 41.4. Skin Surface Lipid
- 41.5. Lipid Mediators
- 41.6. Lipids in Cosmetics
- 41.7. Barrier Care (Repair) Using Cosmetics to Improve Skin Disease
Chapter 42. Structural Aspects of Stratum Corneum
- 42.1. Introduction
- 42.2. X-ray Diffraction Study on Stratum Corneum
- 42.3. Highly Sensitive Detection of Minute Structural Change on Applying Chemical Agents
- 42.4. Penetration Route of Hydrophilic Molecules in Stratum Corneum
- 42.5. Penetration Route of Hydrophobic Molecules in Stratum Corneum
- 42.6. Behavior of Water in Stratum Corneum
- 42.7. Water Regulation Mechanism in Stratum Corneum at the Molecular Level
Chapter 43. Skin Aging
- 43.1. Difference Between Aging and Senescence
- 43.2. Senescence From the Molecular Level to the Systemic Level
- 43.3. Progress and Issues in Senescence Research
- 43.4. Chronic Inflammation and Senescence
- 43.5. Sirtuin and Resveratrol
- 43.6. Strategies in Research on Skin Aging
- 43.7. Issues to be Resolved and Future Considerations
Chapter 44. Melanogenesis
- 44.1. Introduction
- 44.2. Instances of Skin-Lightening QDs Developed in Japan
- 44.3. Conclusions
Chapter 45. Sensitive Skin
- 45.1. Introduction
- 45.2. Assessment of Sensitive Skin
- 45.3. Conclusions
Chapter 46. Skin Penetration
- 46.1. Introduction
- 46.2. A Little Bit About History
- 46.3. Skin Structure/Properties
- 46.4. Factors Affecting the Skin Barrier
- 46.5. Assessing the Skin Barrier
- 46.6. Overcoming the Skin Barrier
- 46.7. Skin Penetration
- 46.8. Evaluation of Skin Penetration
- 46.9. Future Directions
Chapter 47. Effects of Air Pollution on Skin: Dermatologic Options
- 47.1. Introduction
- 47.2. Materials and Methods
- 47.3. Results
- 47.4. Discussion
- 47.5. Conclusions and Future Considerations
Chapter 48. Hair Physiology (Hair Growth, Alopecia, Scalp Treatment, etc.)
- 48.1. Introduction
- 48.2. Basic Concepts, Hair Biology, Cause of Hair Loss, and Treatments
- 48.3. Hair Growth–Promoting Compounds
- 48.4. Light-Emitting Diodes, Lasers, and Other Cosmetic Surgeries
- 48.5. Growth Factor Cocktail, Cell Culture Media Injection, and Platelet-Rich Plasma
- 48.6. Hair Transplantation
- 48.7. Future Treatment in Cosmetics: Regeneration of Hair Follicles by Autologous Cell-Based Therapy for Hair Loss
- 48.8. Summary and Future Directions
Chapter 49. Clinical Evaluation and Instrumental Techniques in Dermatology
Chapter 50. Safety Evaluation
- 50.1. Introduction
- 50.2. What Is Safety?
- 50.3. How Should We Consider the Safety of Cosmetics and Their Ingredients?
- 50.4. To What Extent We Should Assure the Safety of Cosmetics?
- 50.5. Process of Safety Evaluation
- 50.6. Implementation of Safety Tests
- 50.7. Reevaluation After Launch
- 50.8. Conclusion
Chapter 51. Safety Assessment of Cosmetic Ingredients
- 51.1. Introduction
- 51.2. Toxicological Study
- 51.3. Current Update
- 51.4. International Test Guidelines
- 51.5. International Trends in Regulatory Use for Cosmetics
- 51.6. Conclusion
- No. of pages: 854
- Language: English
- Edition: 1
- Published: March 3, 2017
- Imprint: Elsevier
- Hardback ISBN: 9780128020050
- eBook ISBN: 9780128020548
KS
Kazutami Sakamoto
RL
Robert Y. Lochhead
HM
Howard I. Maibach
YY