Cosmeceuticals

Stay on top of more than "just the basics" concerning cosmetics and skin care and deliver the state-of-the-art expertise your patients are looking for. Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology: Cosmeceuticals, 4th Edition, improves your knowledge and expertise with the cutting-edge cosmeceuticals that produce the superior results your patients expect. Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos, along with hand-selected experts in each individual area, provides expert guidance on all of today’s principal cosmeceuticals, including how to evaluate their efficacy and how to advise patients on their use. A substantial, all-new video library from Dr. Draelos answers frequently asked questions and dispels commonly held myths.

Cover image
Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology
Title page
Copyright
Contributors
Series Preface
Preface
Dedication
Contents
List of Videos
PART I Defining the Cosmeceutical Realm
Chapter 1 The Stratum Corneum: A Functional Barrier for Cosmeceuticals
Introduction
Functions of the Epidermal Skin Barrier
Stratum Corneum Homeostasis and Skin Condition
Cosmeceuticals and the Skin Barrier
Future Trends
Further Reading
Chapter 2 Cosmeceutical Formulation
Introduction
Vehicles
Emulsions
Serums
Balm Products
Delivery Systems
Additional Formulation Considerations When Developing Cosmeceutical Products
Conclusion
CHAPTER 3 Evaluating Cosmeceutical Efficacy
Introduction
Visual, Optical, and Laser-Based Methods
Instrumental Methods Related to Tactile Assessments
Instrumental Methods Based on Physiologic Processes
Instrumental Measurements Based on Physical Properties
Conclusion
Further Reading
PART II Cosmeceutical Actives
Chapter 4 Cosmeceutical Vitamins: Retinoids and Vitamin A
Introduction
Molecular Biology of Retinoids
Metabolism of Cutaneously Delivered Retinoids
Conclusion
Further Reading
CHAPTER 5 Cosmeceutical Vitamins: Vitamin C
Introduction
Oxidative Stress, Aging Skin, and Vitamin C
Vitamin C: Effects on Collagen and Elastin Synthesis
Photoprotection by Vitamin C
Vitamin C as an Antiinflammatory
Vitamin C Inhibits Melanogenesis
Delivery and Metabolism of L-Ascorbic Acid and Derivatives
Clinical Studies Confirming Antiaging Benefits of Topical Vitamin C
Conclusion
Further Reading
CHAPTER 6 Cosmeceutical Vitamins: Vitamin B
Introduction
Niacinamide
Panthenol
Conclusion
Further Reading
CHAPTER 7 Cosmeceutical Lipids for Barrier Repair
Introduction
Dynamics of Barrier Recovery
Clinical Applications of the Cutaneous Stress Test
Lipid Composition of Lamellar Membranes
Lipid Synthesis and Requirements for the Barrier
Equimolar Distribution of the Three Key stratum corneum Lipids
Nonphysiologic Lipids: Mechanism of Action
Rationale for Barrier Repair Therapy
Deployment of Barrier Repair Therapy
Conclusion
Further Reading
CHAPTER 8 Cosmeceutical Botanicals
Introduction
Regulatory
Product Development Challenges
DISCUSSION
Conclusion
Acknowledgment
Further Reading
CHAPTER 9 Marine Cosmeceuticals
Seawater
Sea Mud
Algae Extracts
Chitin and Chitosan
Marine Collagen
Conclusion
Further Reading
CHAPTER 10 Cosmeceutical Metals
Introduction
Zinc in Cosmeceutical Products
Copper in Cosmeceutical Products
Selenium in Cosmeceutical Products
Aluminum in Cosmeceutical Products
Strontium in Cosmeceutical Products
Conclusion
Further Reading
CHAPTER 11 Cosmeceutical Moisturizers and Barrier Repair
Introduction
General Principles of Fundamental Skin Care
Physiologic Maintenance of Skin Integrity and Water Content
Physiologic Epidermal Barrier Repair
Formulating an Effective Moisturizer
Conclusion
Further Reading
CHAPTER 12 Skin-Lightening Cosmeceuticals
Introduction
Skin-Lightening Cosmeceuticals
Methods to Improve Product Delivery
Laser Therapy
Conclusion
Further Reading
CHAPTER 13 Exfoliation and Antiaging Benefits of AHAs, PHAs, and Bionic Acids
Introduction
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids
Polyhydroxy Acids and Bionic Acids
Gluconolactone: The Most Widely Used PHA
Lactobionic Acid: A Polyhydroxy Bionic Acid
Maltobionic Acid: A Plant-Derived Bionic Acid
Increased Synthesis of Dermal Matrix Components by PHAs and Bionics
Antiglycation Effects of PHAs and Bionic Acids
Use of PHAs and Bionics in the Dermatologist’s Office
Conclusion
Further Reading
CHAPTER 14 Stem Cell–Derived and Exosome Cosmeceuticals
Introduction
Types of Stem Cells and Their Source
Skin Stem Cells
Use of Stem Cells in Cosmetics
Human Adipose Stem Cells in Cosmetics
Human Embryonic Stem Cells in Cosmetics
Conclusion
Further Reading
CHAPTER 15 Autologous Growth Factor Cosmeceuticals
Introduction
Adipose Tissue Source
Fibroblast Source
Regulations for Use of Autologous Fibroblast Cells and Adipose Tissues
Platelet-Rich Plasma
FDA Considerations for Platelet-Rich Plasma
Conclusion
Acknowledgments
Further Reading
CHAPTER 16 Growth Factors, Cellular Secretome, and Exosomes as Cosmeceuticals
Introduction
Photodamage Effects on Skin Tissue
Biochemical Pathways of Skin Aging
Cell Secretome and Growth Factors in Skin Repair
Topical Application of Growth Factors
Combination: Growth Factors With Antioxidants and Retinoids
Sources of Growth Factors and Exosomes
Other Delivery Methods
Risks Associated With Growth Factors
Maintaining Growth Factor Stability
Conclusion
Further Reading
CHAPTER 17 Peptide Cosmeceuticals
Introduction
Classes of Peptides in Dermocosmetics
Role of Peptides in Protecting the Skin
Looking Ahead
Conclusion
Acknowledgment
Further Reading
CHAPTER 18 Gene Array and Sequencing Technology in Cosmeceuticals
Introduction
Basic Principles of Gene Array Analysis
Application of Gene Arrays to the Identification and Characterization of Antiaging and Antiinflammatory Bioactive Molecules
Gene Arrays and the Search for Aging Genes
Application of RNA Sequencing to Study Gene Expression
Applications for RNA Sequencing in Dermatology
RNA Sequencing to Study Gene Expression in Inflammatory Skin Disease
Using RNA Sequencing to Identify Potential Drugs to Treat Skin Disease and Cancer
Conclusion
Further Reading
CHAPTER 19 Circadian Rhythm Cosmeceuticals
Introduction
Effect of Circadian Rhythm on Skin
Cosmeceutical Strategies for Daytime Skin Support
Cosmeceutical Strategies for Nighttime Skin Support
Clinical Benefits of a Circadian Rhythm–Based Antioxidant System
Conclusion
Further Reading
Chapter 20 Cannabinoid Cosmeceuticals
Introduction
Introduction to Cannabinoids and the Endocannabinoid System
Introduction to Cannabis-Derived Cosmeceuticals
Conclusion
Further Reading
CHAPTER 21 Cosmeceuticals and Contact Dermatitis
Introduction
Vitamins
Hydroxy Acids
Botanicals
Fragrances
Preservatives
Sunscreens
Emergent Allergens
Patch Testing
Conclusion
Further Reading
Chapter 22 Scar Cosmeceuticals
Introduction
Pathophysiology of Wound Healing
Scar Cosmeceuticals
Conclusion
Further Reading
Chapter 23 Sunscreens
Introduction
Regulatory Aspects
History and Chemistry of Ultraviolet Filters
Sun Protection Factor
Photostability
Dosage and Usage
Adverse Events
Sunscreen Controversies
New Research
REFERENCES AND FURTHER READING
Chapter 24 Cosmeceutical Cleansers
Introduction
Why Do We Need a Cleanser?
Evolution of Skin Cleansers
Types of Skin Cleansers
Liquid Cleansing Compositions
Skin Types and Cleansing of Specific Skin Types
Choosing the Right Type of Facial Cleanser
Effect of Skin Cleansers on Skin Barrier Properties
Evolution of Cleansers Into the Cosmeceuticals Space and Cleansing of Compromised Skin
Future of Skin Cleansing
Conclusion
Further Reading
Chapter 25 Nutraceuticals
Introduction
α-Lipoic Acid
Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10)
Genistein
Conclusion
Further Reading
Chapter 26 Hair Growth Cosmeceuticals and Nutraceuticals
Introduction
Supplements
Combination Therapy
Conclusion
Further Reading
PART III The Application of Cosmeceuticals to Dermatologic Practice
Chapter 27 Cosmeceuticals for Wrinkles and Fine Lines
Chapter 28 Cosmeceuticals for Facial Erythema
Chapter 29 Cosmeceuticals for Dyspigmentation
Chapter 30 Oily Skin Cosmeceutical
Chapter 31 Dry Skin Cosmeceuticals
Chapter 32 Acne Cosmeceuticals
PART IV Cosmeceutical Myths
Chapter 33 Acne Cosmeceutical Myths
Introduction
Cosmeceuticals Do Not Produce Acne If Labeled Noncomedogenic and Nonacnegenic
Mineral Oil Is Comedogenic
Sunscreens Produce Acne
Vitamin E Capsules Improve the Appearance of Scars
Glycolic Acid Application Can Reduce Pore Size
A Complex Skin Care Regimen of Multiple Cleansers, Moisturizers, and Ancillary Skin Care Products Is Necessary for Clear Skin
Breakouts After the Age of 30 in Females Are Rare
Cosmeceuticals Cannot Undergo Reliable Comedogenicity Testing
Over-the-Counter Scar Gels Can Aid in Improving Acne Scars
Chapter 34 Cosmeceutical Antiaging Myths
Introduction
Expensive Moisturizers Are More Effective
Moisturizers Remove Wrinkles
Cosmeceuticals Can Produce Beneficial Effects on Facial Muscles to Improve Skin Tone
Bleaching Creams Can Improve Brown Spots Quickly
Glycolic Acid Peels Must Hurt to Be Effective
Cosmeceuticals Need to Penetrate the Skin Barrier to Work
Topical Formulations of Vitamins and Supplements Are Similar to Pills in Effectiveness for Skin Improvement
Vitamin-Containing Products Can Reverse Photoaging
Retinol in Over-the-Counter Preparations Works Like Prescription Tretinoin
A Sunscreen With a Sun Protection Factor Above 15 Does Not Provide Additional Photoprotection
Self-Tanning Cosmeceuticals Provide Sun Protection
Nanoparticles Increase Antiaging Cosmeceutical Efficacy
Scarce Cosmeceutical Ingredients Add Cutaneous Benefit
Lip Plumping Cosmeceuticals Increase Lip Size
Chapter 35 Botanical Cosmeceutical Myths
Introduction
Hypoallergenic Botanical Cosmeceuticals Do Not Produce Allergic Reactions
Preservative-Free Botanical Cosmeceuticals Produce Fewer Skin Reactions
Botanical Cosmeceuticals Are Natural
Botanically Derived Fragrances Do Not Cause Allergic Contact Dermatitis
Botanical Cosmeceuticals Can Reduce Sebum Production
Antiperspirants Contain Chemicals That Are Not Naturally Derived and Are Therefore Damaging to the Sweat Glands
Botanicals and Mineral Cosmetics Are Safe and Do Not Cause Acne
Face Masks With Botanicals Improve Skin Tone
All-Natural Ingredients Are Safer in Skin Care Products
Numerous Botanicals in Cosmeceuticals Are Better
Cleansers With Ground Botanical Materials Are Good for Deep Cleaning Pores
Topical Botanical Cosmeceuticals Minimize Postmenopausal Skin Changes

JD

Jeffrey S. Dover

Dr. Jeffrey S. Dover is the co-director of SkinCare Physicians of Chestnut Hill, a comprehensive facility specializing in dermatology, laser and cosmetic surgery, and he is Associate Professor of Clinical Dermatology at Yale University School of Medicine, and Associate Professor of Dermatology at Brown Medical School. Dr. Dover’s research interests are Photomedicine, lasers in medicine, cosmetic laser surgery, and medical education. He is the author of over 400 scientific publications. He has co-authored and edited over 45 textbooks, many of which have been translated into French, Italian, Spanish, Russian, Polish and Chinese and are sold to physicians all over the world. Dr. Dover is the founding editor of Journal Watch for Dermatology, produced by the publishers of the New England Journal of Medicine. He is also a Past President of both the American Society of Dermatologic Surgery and the American Society for Lasers in Medicine and Surgery.

Affiliations and expertise

Director, SkinCare Physicians, Chestnut Hill, Massachusetts; Associate Clinical Professor of Dermatology at Yale University School of Medicine, and Adjunct Associate Professor of Dermatology at Brown Medical School, Providence, Rhode Island

MA

Murad Alam

Dr. Murad Alam is an author of over 250 scientific publications and is the Editor of Archives of Dermatological Research. He is the Associate Editor of JAAD; Lasers in Medical Science; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology; the International Journal of Women’s Dermatology, and he is the Assistant Editor of Dermatologic Surgery. Dr. Alam is series co-editor of the Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology books and has overall edited 20 books. Dr. Alam is current President of the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, and an incoming member of the Board of the American Academy of Dermatology. He is also the vice-president of the Blade and Light Society, an organization of volunteer dermatologic surgeons who perform charitable mission work to treat skin cancers and train surgical dermatologists in underserved countries. Dr. Alam’s clinical practice includes the treatment of skin cancer, as well as cosmetic dermatology, and laser surgery.

Affiliations and expertise

Professor and Vice Chair, Department of Dermatology; Professor, Departments of Surgery, Otolaryngology, and Medical Social Sciences, Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine, Chicago, IL

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Jeffrey S. Dover

Murad Alam

Zoe Diana Draelos