Waves, Tides and Shallow Water Processes

Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes is designed as a textbook on Oceanography, intended for Open University students. The text covers aspects on waves, tides, and shallow-water processes. Chapter 1 describes the qualitative aspects of water waves, briefly reviews modern methods of wave measurement, and explores some of the simple relationships of wave dimensions and characteristics. Chapter 2 outlines the mechanism of tides. This chapter also deals with the interaction of the tide with shoals, coasts and estuaries, and with the prediction of both normal and abnormal tides. Chapter 3 introduces the nature of shallow marine sediments and the types of environments in which they are deposited. Chapter 4 considers, in general terms, the physical conditions that lead to the erosion, transport and deposition of sediment by flowing water. Chapter 5 examines the conditions under which sediment is moved by waves, the rate at which it is moved and the way in which waves enhance currents. Chapter 6 examines two types of coastal areas where tidal processes are more important than wave processes: tidal flats and estuaries. Chapter 7 explains how the differences in the relative influences of rivers, tidal currents and wave energy lead to differences in sediment dispersal and give various types of deltas their characteristic shapes. Chapter 8 outlines how currents and waves can affect sediments in water as deep as the shelf break, and considers how sediment transport paths across the sea-bed in current dominated shelf seas can be determined. Finally, an outline is given of the mineral resources of continental shelf areas. Oceanographers and students of oceanography will find the book very useful and educational.