
Cosmeceuticals
Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology Series
- 4th Edition - April 9, 2024
- Imprint: Elsevier
- Author: Zoe Diana Draelos
- Editors: Jeffrey S. Dover, Murad Alam
- Language: English
- Hardback ISBN:9 7 8 - 0 - 4 4 3 - 1 1 8 0 8 - 1
- eBook ISBN:9 7 8 - 0 - 4 4 3 - 1 1 8 0 9 - 8
Stay on top of more than "just the basics" concerning cosmetics and skin care and deliver the state-of-the-art expertise your patients are looking for. Procedures in Cosmetic Der… Read more

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Request a sales quoteStay on top of more than "just the basics" concerning cosmetics and skin care and deliver the state-of-the-art expertise your patients are looking for. Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology: Cosmeceuticals, 4th Edition, improves your knowledge and expertise with the cutting-edge cosmeceuticals that produce the superior results your patients expect. Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos, along with hand-selected experts in each individual area, provides expert guidance on all of today’s principal cosmeceuticals, including how to evaluate their efficacy and how to advise patients on their use. A substantial, all-new video library from Dr. Draelos answers frequently asked questions and dispels commonly held myths.
- Guides you on how to advise patients regarding normal skincare routines, including new categories of cosmeceuticals.
- Helps you expand your repertoire and increase your knowledge with expert content on hyaluronic acid, hydrocolloid patches, antioxidants, retinoids, stem cells, growth factor cosmeceuticals, oral collagens, peptides, clean beauty, sunscreens, cleansers, oral supplements, platelet rich plasma (PRP), and more.
- Includes eight new chapters on exosomes, cannabinoids, circadian rhythm cosmeceuticals, autologous growth factors, hair growth cosmeceuticals, nutraceuticals, and more.
- Includes 49 all-new videos in which Dr. Draelos answers reader questions such as: Do you need both hyaluronic acid and a moisturizer to optimize the skin barrier? When should you start anti-aging interventions? Does topical PRP work? Are mineral sunscreens better than chemical sunscreens? What are your favorite products to incorporate into every skin care routine, and what is the order in which to apply them?
- Provides a thorough understanding of the skin's physiology and how this affects the delivery of cosmetic products.
- Speeds you directly to the information you need with summaries and key points in every chapter.
- An eBook version is included with purchase. The eBook allows you to access all of the text, figures, and references, with the ability to search, customize your content, make notes and highlights, and have content read aloud. Additional digital ancillary content may publish up to 6 weeks following the publication date.
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Dermatology
- Cover image
- Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology
- Title page
- Copyright
- Contributors
- Series Preface
- Preface
- Dedication
- Contents
- List of Videos
- PART I Defining the Cosmeceutical Realm
- Chapter 1 The Stratum Corneum: A Functional Barrier for Cosmeceuticals
- Introduction
- Functions of the Epidermal Skin Barrier
- Stratum Corneum Homeostasis and Skin Condition
- Cosmeceuticals and the Skin Barrier
- Future Trends
- Further Reading
- Chapter 2 Cosmeceutical Formulation
- Introduction
- Vehicles
- Emulsions
- Serums
- Balm Products
- Delivery Systems
- Additional Formulation Considerations When Developing Cosmeceutical Products
- Conclusion
- CHAPTER 3 Evaluating Cosmeceutical Efficacy
- Introduction
- Visual, Optical, and Laser-Based Methods
- Instrumental Methods Related to Tactile Assessments
- Instrumental Methods Based on Physiologic Processes
- Instrumental Measurements Based on Physical Properties
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- PART II Cosmeceutical Actives
- Chapter 4 Cosmeceutical Vitamins: Retinoids and Vitamin A
- Introduction
- Molecular Biology of Retinoids
- Metabolism of Cutaneously Delivered Retinoids
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- CHAPTER 5 Cosmeceutical Vitamins: Vitamin C
- Introduction
- Oxidative Stress, Aging Skin, and Vitamin C
- Vitamin C: Effects on Collagen and Elastin Synthesis
- Photoprotection by Vitamin C
- Vitamin C as an Antiinflammatory
- Vitamin C Inhibits Melanogenesis
- Delivery and Metabolism of L-Ascorbic Acid and Derivatives
- Clinical Studies Confirming Antiaging Benefits of Topical Vitamin C
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- CHAPTER 6 Cosmeceutical Vitamins: Vitamin B
- Introduction
- Niacinamide
- Panthenol
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- CHAPTER 7 Cosmeceutical Lipids for Barrier Repair
- Introduction
- Dynamics of Barrier Recovery
- Clinical Applications of the Cutaneous Stress Test
- Lipid Composition of Lamellar Membranes
- Lipid Synthesis and Requirements for the Barrier
- Equimolar Distribution of the Three Key stratum corneum Lipids
- Nonphysiologic Lipids: Mechanism of Action
- Rationale for Barrier Repair Therapy
- Deployment of Barrier Repair Therapy
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- CHAPTER 8 Cosmeceutical Botanicals
- Introduction
- Regulatory
- Product Development Challenges
- DISCUSSION
- Conclusion
- Acknowledgment
- Further Reading
- CHAPTER 9 Marine Cosmeceuticals
- Seawater
- Sea Mud
- Algae Extracts
- Chitin and Chitosan
- Marine Collagen
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- CHAPTER 10 Cosmeceutical Metals
- Introduction
- Zinc in Cosmeceutical Products
- Copper in Cosmeceutical Products
- Selenium in Cosmeceutical Products
- Aluminum in Cosmeceutical Products
- Strontium in Cosmeceutical Products
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- CHAPTER 11 Cosmeceutical Moisturizers and Barrier Repair
- Introduction
- General Principles of Fundamental Skin Care
- Physiologic Maintenance of Skin Integrity and Water Content
- Physiologic Epidermal Barrier Repair
- Formulating an Effective Moisturizer
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- CHAPTER 12 Skin-Lightening Cosmeceuticals
- Introduction
- Skin-Lightening Cosmeceuticals
- Methods to Improve Product Delivery
- Laser Therapy
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- CHAPTER 13 Exfoliation and Antiaging Benefits of AHAs, PHAs, and Bionic Acids
- Introduction
- Alpha-Hydroxy Acids
- Polyhydroxy Acids and Bionic Acids
- Gluconolactone: The Most Widely Used PHA
- Lactobionic Acid: A Polyhydroxy Bionic Acid
- Maltobionic Acid: A Plant-Derived Bionic Acid
- Increased Synthesis of Dermal Matrix Components by PHAs and Bionics
- Antiglycation Effects of PHAs and Bionic Acids
- Use of PHAs and Bionics in the Dermatologist’s Office
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- CHAPTER 14 Stem Cell–Derived and Exosome Cosmeceuticals
- Introduction
- Types of Stem Cells and Their Source
- Skin Stem Cells
- Use of Stem Cells in Cosmetics
- Human Adipose Stem Cells in Cosmetics
- Human Embryonic Stem Cells in Cosmetics
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- CHAPTER 15 Autologous Growth Factor Cosmeceuticals
- Introduction
- Adipose Tissue Source
- Fibroblast Source
- Regulations for Use of Autologous Fibroblast Cells and Adipose Tissues
- Platelet-Rich Plasma
- FDA Considerations for Platelet-Rich Plasma
- Conclusion
- Acknowledgments
- Further Reading
- CHAPTER 16 Growth Factors, Cellular Secretome, and Exosomes as Cosmeceuticals
- Introduction
- Photodamage Effects on Skin Tissue
- Biochemical Pathways of Skin Aging
- Cell Secretome and Growth Factors in Skin Repair
- Topical Application of Growth Factors
- Combination: Growth Factors With Antioxidants and Retinoids
- Sources of Growth Factors and Exosomes
- Other Delivery Methods
- Risks Associated With Growth Factors
- Maintaining Growth Factor Stability
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- CHAPTER 17 Peptide Cosmeceuticals
- Introduction
- Classes of Peptides in Dermocosmetics
- Role of Peptides in Protecting the Skin
- Looking Ahead
- Conclusion
- Acknowledgment
- Further Reading
- CHAPTER 18 Gene Array and Sequencing Technology in Cosmeceuticals
- Introduction
- Basic Principles of Gene Array Analysis
- Application of Gene Arrays to the Identification and Characterization of Antiaging and Antiinflammatory Bioactive Molecules
- Gene Arrays and the Search for Aging Genes
- Application of RNA Sequencing to Study Gene Expression
- Applications for RNA Sequencing in Dermatology
- RNA Sequencing to Study Gene Expression in Inflammatory Skin Disease
- Using RNA Sequencing to Identify Potential Drugs to Treat Skin Disease and Cancer
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- CHAPTER 19 Circadian Rhythm Cosmeceuticals
- Introduction
- Effect of Circadian Rhythm on Skin
- Cosmeceutical Strategies for Daytime Skin Support
- Cosmeceutical Strategies for Nighttime Skin Support
- Clinical Benefits of a Circadian Rhythm–Based Antioxidant System
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- Chapter 20 Cannabinoid Cosmeceuticals
- Introduction
- Introduction to Cannabinoids and the Endocannabinoid System
- Introduction to Cannabis-Derived Cosmeceuticals
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- CHAPTER 21 Cosmeceuticals and Contact Dermatitis
- Introduction
- Vitamins
- Hydroxy Acids
- Botanicals
- Fragrances
- Preservatives
- Sunscreens
- Emergent Allergens
- Patch Testing
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- Chapter 22 Scar Cosmeceuticals
- Introduction
- Pathophysiology of Wound Healing
- Scar Cosmeceuticals
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- Chapter 23 Sunscreens
- Introduction
- Regulatory Aspects
- History and Chemistry of Ultraviolet Filters
- Sun Protection Factor
- Photostability
- Dosage and Usage
- Adverse Events
- Sunscreen Controversies
- New Research
- REFERENCES AND FURTHER READING
- Chapter 24 Cosmeceutical Cleansers
- Introduction
- Why Do We Need a Cleanser?
- Evolution of Skin Cleansers
- Types of Skin Cleansers
- Liquid Cleansing Compositions
- Skin Types and Cleansing of Specific Skin Types
- Choosing the Right Type of Facial Cleanser
- Effect of Skin Cleansers on Skin Barrier Properties
- Evolution of Cleansers Into the Cosmeceuticals Space and Cleansing of Compromised Skin
- Future of Skin Cleansing
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- Chapter 25 Nutraceuticals
- Introduction
- α-Lipoic Acid
- Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10)
- Genistein
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- Chapter 26 Hair Growth Cosmeceuticals and Nutraceuticals
- Introduction
- Supplements
- Combination Therapy
- Conclusion
- Further Reading
- PART III The Application of Cosmeceuticals to Dermatologic Practice
- Chapter 27 Cosmeceuticals for Wrinkles and Fine Lines
- Chapter 28 Cosmeceuticals for Facial Erythema
- Chapter 29 Cosmeceuticals for Dyspigmentation
- Chapter 30 Oily Skin Cosmeceutical
- Chapter 31 Dry Skin Cosmeceuticals
- Chapter 32 Acne Cosmeceuticals
- PART IV Cosmeceutical Myths
- Chapter 33 Acne Cosmeceutical Myths
- Introduction
- Cosmeceuticals Do Not Produce Acne If Labeled Noncomedogenic and Nonacnegenic
- Mineral Oil Is Comedogenic
- Sunscreens Produce Acne
- Vitamin E Capsules Improve the Appearance of Scars
- Glycolic Acid Application Can Reduce Pore Size
- A Complex Skin Care Regimen of Multiple Cleansers, Moisturizers, and Ancillary Skin Care Products Is Necessary for Clear Skin
- Breakouts After the Age of 30 in Females Are Rare
- Cosmeceuticals Cannot Undergo Reliable Comedogenicity Testing
- Over-the-Counter Scar Gels Can Aid in Improving Acne Scars
- Chapter 34 Cosmeceutical Antiaging Myths
- Introduction
- Expensive Moisturizers Are More Effective
- Moisturizers Remove Wrinkles
- Cosmeceuticals Can Produce Beneficial Effects on Facial Muscles to Improve Skin Tone
- Bleaching Creams Can Improve Brown Spots Quickly
- Glycolic Acid Peels Must Hurt to Be Effective
- Cosmeceuticals Need to Penetrate the Skin Barrier to Work
- Topical Formulations of Vitamins and Supplements Are Similar to Pills in Effectiveness for Skin Improvement
- Vitamin-Containing Products Can Reverse Photoaging
- Retinol in Over-the-Counter Preparations Works Like Prescription Tretinoin
- A Sunscreen With a Sun Protection Factor Above 15 Does Not Provide Additional Photoprotection
- Self-Tanning Cosmeceuticals Provide Sun Protection
- Nanoparticles Increase Antiaging Cosmeceutical Efficacy
- Scarce Cosmeceutical Ingredients Add Cutaneous Benefit
- Lip Plumping Cosmeceuticals Increase Lip Size
- Chapter 35 Botanical Cosmeceutical Myths
- Introduction
- Hypoallergenic Botanical Cosmeceuticals Do Not Produce Allergic Reactions
- Preservative-Free Botanical Cosmeceuticals Produce Fewer Skin Reactions
- Botanical Cosmeceuticals Are Natural
- Botanically Derived Fragrances Do Not Cause Allergic Contact Dermatitis
- Botanical Cosmeceuticals Can Reduce Sebum Production
- Antiperspirants Contain Chemicals That Are Not Naturally Derived and Are Therefore Damaging to the Sweat Glands
- Botanicals and Mineral Cosmetics Are Safe and Do Not Cause Acne
- Face Masks With Botanicals Improve Skin Tone
- All-Natural Ingredients Are Safer in Skin Care Products
- Numerous Botanicals in Cosmeceuticals Are Better
- Cleansers With Ground Botanical Materials Are Good for Deep Cleaning Pores
- Topical Botanical Cosmeceuticals Minimize Postmenopausal Skin Changes
- Edition: 4
- Published: April 9, 2024
- Imprint: Elsevier
- No. of pages: 288
- Language: English
- Hardback ISBN: 9780443118081
- eBook ISBN: 9780443118098
JD
Jeffrey S. Dover
Dr. Jeffrey S. Dover is the co-director of SkinCare Physicians of Chestnut Hill, a comprehensive facility specializing in dermatology, laser and cosmetic surgery, and he is Associate Professor of Clinical Dermatology at Yale University School of Medicine, and Associate Professor of Dermatology at Brown Medical School. Dr. Dover’s research interests are Photomedicine, lasers in medicine, cosmetic laser surgery, and medical education. He is the author of over 400 scientific publications. He has co-authored and edited over 45 textbooks, many of which have been translated into French, Italian, Spanish, Russian, Polish and Chinese and are sold to physicians all over the world. Dr. Dover is the founding editor of Journal Watch for Dermatology, produced by the publishers of the New England Journal of Medicine. He is also a Past President of both the American Society of Dermatologic Surgery and the American Society for Lasers in Medicine and Surgery.
Affiliations and expertise
Associate Professor of Clinical Dermatology, Yale University School of Medicine; Adjunct Clinical Professor of Dermatology, Brown Medical School, SkinCare Physicians, Chestnut Hill, MA, USAMA
Murad Alam
Dr. Murad Alam is an author of over 250 scientific publications and is the Editor of Archives of Dermatological Research. He is the Associate Editor of JAAD; Lasers in Medical Science; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology; the International Journal of Women’s Dermatology, and he is the Assistant Editor of Dermatologic Surgery. Dr. Alam is series co-editor of the Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology books and has overall edited 20 books. Dr. Alam is current President of the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, and an incoming member of the Board of the American Academy of Dermatology. He is also the vice-president of the Blade and Light Society, an organization of volunteer dermatologic surgeons who perform charitable mission work to treat skin cancers and train surgical dermatologists in underserved countries. Dr. Alam’s clinical practice includes the treatment of skin cancer, as well as cosmetic dermatology, and laser surgery.
Affiliations and expertise
Professor and Vice-Chair, Department of Dermatology; Professor of Surgery, Otolaryngology and Medical Social Services, Feinberg School of Medicine, Northwestern University, Chicago, ILZD
Zoe Diana Draelos
Zoe Draelos MD, is recognized as THE expert in the field of cosmeceuticals in the US. She is a practicing board-certified clinical dermatologist with research interests in cosmetics, toiletries, and biologically active skin medications. She is in solo private practice in High Point, North Carolina, and a Consulting Professor of Dermatology at Duke University. In 1988, she founded Dermatology Consulting Services to provide education, develop formulations, and conduct clinical studies in association with industry. She is former Vice-President of the American Academy of Dermatology. She has received a lifetime achievement award from Health Beauty America for her research.
Affiliations and expertise
Clinical Associate Professor, Department of Dermatology, Wake Forest University School of Medicine, Winston-Salem, NC, USA; President, Dermatology Consulting Services, High Point, NC, USA